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Finally, we’ll use the power of layer blend modes to easily blend the lens flare into the image, and finish off by adjusting its colors to better match the colors in the photo. We’ll also apply some blurring to soften the lens flare and help it look more realistic.
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While Adobe charges a fee to use its main Photoshop software, the company does offer free image editing tools in the form of the Photoshop Express application. The family was top, refinish, and coastal at connecting with the complexity in a due construction on somebody, everyone board, and newline fires. These are Latest Working Free Keys. You can simply make your design and styles within adobe Illustrator without any problem.
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Spiral custom shapes include many different spiral designs from basic spirals, thin spiral shapes, square spirals. This app is useful both for the personal and professional purpose. Adobe Photoshop CS6 is the latest technology tool which allows you to edit your images with 2D and 3D effect which represent the next level look. T H E A D O B E P H O T O S H O P C S 6 B O O K F O R D I G I TA L P H O T O G R A P H E R S. The Adobe Photoshop CS6 Book for Digital Photographers Team CREATIVE DIRECTOR Felix Nelson TECHNICAL.
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Finally, there's a couple of ways that we can adjust the intensity of the lens flare depending on whether you need to increase or decrease its brightness. If you're already happy with the way things look, you can skip this last step, but if you find that your lens flare is too bright, you can reduce its intensity by lowering the opacity of the "Lens flare" layer. You'll find the Opacity option in the upper right of the Layers panel, directly across from the blend mode option.
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The image after adjusting the colors in the lens flare
Unfortunately, I am not satisfied with the specs specified on the website, as I believe they are far lesser than the specs needed to run the program at its full potential. This belief comes from my experience with the product Adobe Photoshop CS2 that I currently run on my computer.
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The “Looks” tool offers a huge number of Photoshop (click for source) Express filters. To adjust the filter, the manufacturers added a slider, which helps enhance or reduce the selected effect. Examining the tool itself, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality that Adobe Photoshop Express offers.
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This mode is great for displaying and evaluating your work or for distraction-free editing. And the black background really makes images pop off the screen (though the next section shows you how to change its color).
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For earlier versions of Photoshop, check out my original Non-Destructive Lens Flare Effect tutorial
Let's start with an image from the 2002 Corel World Conference in Saint Louis. I did some pre-processing in Camera Raw because it's really exciting to see how much an image can be improved when processed with modern tools. The paragraph formatting tools will be familiar to anyone who has ever defined a paragraph style in InDesign, Ventura Publisher, or Microsoft Word.
Paths are the outlines you make with the Pen and shape tools. But these aren’t your average, run-of-the-mill lines—they’re made up of points and paths instead of pixels, so they’ll always look perfectly crisp when printed. You can also make them bigger or smaller without losing any quality. You’ll learn all about paths in Chapter 13.
By using the History Brush set to the image’s earlier state—see step 4 on this page—you can undo all kinds of effects, including a little over-darkening from using the Burn tool. You can also reduce the opacity of the History Brush in the Options bar to make the change more gradual.
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For this technique, you’ll use Hue/Saturation adjustment layer again, but without making the selection. It will affect the entire photo, and you will mask out the parts you want to leave unchanged.
Photoshop includes three different screen modes for your document-viewing pleasure. Depending on what you’re doing, one will suit you better than the others. For example, you can make an image take up your whole screen (with or without the Menu and Options bars), hide Photoshop’s panels, and so on (see Figure 1-3). To give each mode a spin, you first need to open an image file: Choose File→Open, navigate to where the image lives, and then click Open.
The History panel is like your very own time machine: It tracks nearly everything you do to your image (the last 20 things, to be exact, though you can change this number using preferences [see Performance]). It appears docked as a button to the left of the Color panel group. The next section explains how to use it to undo what you’ve done.
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Having examined the filters in detail, I saw absolutely the same set, which consists of 7 filters for different modes, each of which has approximately 10 additional effects. With the “crop” tool, I saw a similar situation. All the same features that the tool has in the PC version.
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Name this new layer “Sharpened for Print,” then go under the Filter menu, under Sharpen, and choose Unsharp Mask. For most 240 ppi images, I apply these settings: Amount 120; Radius 1; Threshold 3. Click OK. Step Two: Next, reapply the Unsharp Mask fil- ter with the same settings by pressing Command-F (PC: Ctrl-F). Then, at the top of the Layers panel, change the layer blend mode to Luminosity (so the sharp- ening is only applied to the detail of the photo, and not the color), then use the Opacity slider to control how much sharp- ening is applied. Start at 50% and see if it looks a little bit oversharpened. If it looks like a little bit too much, stop—you want it to look a little oversharpened. If you think it’s way too much, lower the opacity to around 35% and re-evaluate. When it looks right (a little too sharp), make a test print. My guess is that you’ll want to raise the opacity up a little higher, because it won’t be as sharp as you thought.
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To position the lens flare where you want it, simply click inside the preview area. The spot you click on becomes the center of the flare, indicated by the little target symbol. You can also click and drag to move the flare around.
To add the lens flare, we'll use Photoshop's Lens Flare filter
When I first started using 3D in Photoshop it was working rather smoothly and seemed to chug along fairly fast. Then one day when I was working in it as usual and tried to perform some random action it just started hanging with the spinning blue circle for about 2 or 3 minutes. It continued to do this ever since, sometimes hanging for up to 5 minutes before performing my command. Some actions cause it to hang longer than others, such as creating a new light and changing the diffuse color of a material, which is by far the worst in terms of the amount of time it will hang. I have searched the forums and google and tried all suggestions to any problem that seemed to have a similar nature. The only time that I had a partial success was after I had uninstalled Photoshop, then ran the adobe creative suite cleaner tool, then manually searched through the registry for every reference to adobe and Photoshop I could find and deleted them. I then reinstalled Photoshop and updated it. When I started using it in 3D after that it was running smooth as butter, no hangs or stalls on anything, including creating lights and changing diffuse colors.
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Click OK when you're done to close out of the dialog box. Here's my result after adjusting the colors.
Lording over the document window is the Options bar (Figure 1-2, top), which lets you customize the behavior of nearly every item in the Tools panel. This bar automatically changes to include settings related to the tool you’re currently using. Unfortunately, the Options bar’s labels are fairly cryptic, so it can be hard to figure out what the heck all those settings do. Luckily, you can point your cursor at any setting to see a little yellow pop-up description called a tooltip (you don’t need to click—just don’t move your mouse for a couple seconds).
The Adobe Photoshop CS6 Book for Digital Photographers Step 13: If you do choose to move them to a new folder, you can automatically re- name your photos in the process. In short, here’s how the file naming works: In the first field within the File Naming section, you type the basic name you want all the files to have. In the other fields, you can choose (from a pop-up menu) the auto- matic numbering scheme to use (adding a 1-digit number, 2-digit number, etc, and if you choose this, there’s a field near the bottom where you can choose which number to start with).
If you are planning to learn Photoshop, here are some basic tutorials to start and improve your photo-editing skills. These tutorials will help you start from scratch and move up to the expert level.
Eye Candy's effects are divided into 2 broad categories: Those that work on text and selected areas of images and those that create backgrounds. I've shown some of the text effects previously so this time I'd like to an image-selection effect.
If you think you’ll ever want to return to an earlier version of the document, click the “Create new document from current state” button at the bottom of the History panel. That way, you’ve got a totally separate document to return to so you don’t have to recreate that state.
Unfortunately, there’s not enough room in the Tools panel for each tool to have its own spot, so related tools are grouped into toolsets. The microscopic triangle at the bottom right of each toolset’s button lets you know it represents more than one tool (the Move and Zoom tools are the only ones that live alone). To see the other tools, click the tool’s button and hold down your mouse button; Photoshop then displays a list of the other tools it harbors in a fly-out menu, as shown here (left). Photoshop starts you off with a one-column Tools panel (left), but you can collapse it into two columns (right) by clicking the tiny double triangles circled here (click them again to switch back to one column). If you want to undock the Tools panel, grab the dotted bar labeled here and drag the panel wherever you want it. You can dock the Tools panel to the left or right edge of your screen, or leave it as a free-floating panel.
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There are several ways to change colors of objects in Photoshop, and plenty of different objects you may want to change: clothes, hair color, light color, furniture and so on. Nathaniel Dodson from Tutvid has created a fantastic video that shows you five techniques for changing the color of different objects. You can choose the one you like best or the one that suits the type of the object you’re changing.
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CS6’s new Migrate Presets option lets you transfer presets from previous versions of Photoshop (though it can only work with presets from CS3 or newer). The first time you crack open Photoshop CS6, the program kindly asks whether you want to transfer your presets from any older versions that might be hanging around on your machine.
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Next I wanted to see what I could do with a background. To create a new background, it's necessary to remove the old background.
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After the photo has been retouched, the editor offers to save it to your hard drive, send it by mail, or print it immediately. You should remember that the editor is not designed to work with RAW files, only jpg. That’s why you can save the picture in one format only.
Using the new Export/Import Presets command is a great way for big companies and design firms to share their presets across a whole army of computers. Doing this ensures consistency and accuracy in the artwork they create, and can boost production speed through the use of carefully crafted actions (see Chapter 18). To choose an item for exporting or importing, double-click it in the column on the left, or single-click it and then use the direction buttons (circled) to add or remove presets from the list.
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The next tool is “Corrections”, which allows you to adjust the light, tone, exposure, shadows, and other parameters. After selecting the contrast, you will get one slider for more precise settings and auto mode. By the way, in this case, I didn’t like the auto mode. After testing several modes, color correction, shadows, and exposure, I saw that the image was spoilt rather than improved.
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There is much to be talked about Adobe Photoshop 7.0 as even our team is still using the same version for some mandatory photo editing, so allow us to list some of the key features of this version in the list below. Welcome to the Online Edition of The Charleston Chronicle! When you receive your key, you can copy and paste the entire string directly from your e- mail into the first dialog box, and the other boxes will automatically populate. Your e-mail address (confirm) Country (Optional) Subject: URL (Optional) Inquiry: We will only use your e-mail address to reply to your questions.
Because seeing a font in its typeface is so handy when you’re choosing fonts, Adobe turned on font previews automatically in CS5, and then in CS6 they removed the Font Preview Size from preferences altogether. These days you can adjust the preview size by choosing Type→Font Preview Size, where you can pick among six handy options, including none to huge.
Take a peek on the right side of your screen, and you’ll see that Photoshop starts you off with three docked panel groups filled with the goodies it thinks you’ll use a lot (there’s more on docked panels coming up shortly). The first group includes the Color and Swatches panels; the second group includes Adjustments and Styles; and the third includes Layers, Channels, and Paths. To work with a panel, activate it by clicking its tab.
But if I had later cropped the image in Photoshop CS5/1 or earlier, the crop would have been destructive. Any pixels that were cropped out would be gone. In CS6, the user has an option: Crop the old way (destructively) or the new way. The non-destructive crop is the default and I recommend leaving it that way. Here I've cropped away the lower deck and the area south of the bridge. If I later want to modify the crop and restore the cropped areas, I can do so.
This is the simplest and a pretty common technique. Nathaniel used a model in a red dress and changed the color of the dress.
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Step Four: While we’re talking about size; there’s another new Print feature added in Photoshop CS6 called Print Selected Area, and it gives you the ability to just print part of your image (so, it’s kind of like cropping the print without actually cropping the image itself). You do this in the Position and Size section of the dialog by turning on the Print Selected Area checkbox. When you turn this on, you’ll see little arrows appear around the corners of your image. Just click- and-drag these in toward your image, and as you do, it darkens the areas to be cropped away (as seen here, where I’ve dragged those arrows on the top left, top right, and lower left).
The tool is designed to blur the background, but in this case, I noticed some malfunctions. The tool worked poorly and sometimes did not perform its task.
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If you’ve taken your image down a path of craziness from which you can’t rescue it by using Undo or the History panel, you can revert back to its most recent saved state by choosing File→Revert. This command opens the previously saved version of the image, giving you a quick escape route back to square one.
Here’s how to find and install these profiles:Step One:Your first step is to go to the website ofthe company that makes the paper you’regoing to be printing on and search fortheir downloadable color profiles for yourprinter. I use the term “search” becausethey’re usually not in a really obviousplace. I use two Epson printers—a StylusPhoto R2880 and a Stylus Pro 3880—andI generally print on Epson paper. WhenI installed the 3880’s printer driver, I wastickled to find that it also installed customcolor profiles for all Epson papers (thisis rare), but my R2880 (like most print-ers) doesn’t.
That’s right—we make some simple tweaks that get the image looking right fast. Your Print Is Too Dark This is one of the most common prob- lems, and it’s mostly because today’s monitors are so much more incredibly brighter (either that, or you’re literally viewing your images in a room that’s too dark). Luckily, this is an easy fix and here’s what I do: Press Command-J (PC: Ctrl-J) to duplicate the Background layer, then at the top of the Layers panel, change the layer blend mode to Screen to make everything much brighter. Now, lower the Opacity of this layer to 25% and (this is key here) make a test print. Next, look at the print, and see if it’s a perfect match, or if it’s still too dark. If it’s still too dark, set the Opacity to 35% and make another test print. It’ll probably take a few test prints to nail it, but once you do, your problem is solved (by the way, this is a great thing to make into an action). Your Print Is Too Light This is less likely, but just as easy to fix. Duplicate the Background layer, then change the layer blend mode to Multiply to make everything darker. Now, lower the Opacity of this layer to 20% and make a test print.
Photoshop Training Channel - A dedicated channel on Youtube Photoshop Training Channel is a dedicated blog for photoshop tutorials. The tutorials videos are also available on Youtube however you can download the related material on this site for a quick start.
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The Tools panel (Figure 1-9, left) is the home base for all of Photoshop’s editing tools, and it’s included in all the built-in workspaces. Until you memorize the tools’ keyboard shortcuts, you can’t do much without this panel! When you first launch the program, you’ll see the Tools panel on the left side of the screen, but you can drag it anywhere you want by clicking the tiny row of vertical dashes near its top (Figure 1-9, right).
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I hope these techniques will help you deal with any situation when you need to change the color. Make sure to watch the video to see the examples and the entire workflow, and check out more tutorials on Tutvid’s YouTube channel.
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This document looks at different workflows and gives recommendations. It should give you an idea of what's needed.
To add to the fun, you can also rename individual presets. In the Preset Manager dialog box, choose the relevant library from the Preset Type pop-up menu and then click to activate the soon-to-be-renamed preset. Click the Rename button, type a new moniker in the Name field, and then click OK. To delete a preset library you never use, choose it from the Preset Manager’s Preset Type pop-up menu and then click Delete.
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As some background, I’ve been teaching college students to edit video for the better part of a decade. I’ve used everything from Final Cut Pro 7, to Final Cut Pro X, to several iterations of Adobe Premiere Pro. While through the universities I’ve worked at, I’ve been able to run all of this software on the latest and greatest machines, my home setups more mirror what mere mortals can afford: a humble Macbook Air and a mid-range PC and iMac.
The Burn tool lives in a toolset, so cycle through those tools by pressing Shift-O a couple of times (its icon looks like a hand making an O shape). Then mouse over to your image and drag across an area that needs darkening. Straight from the factory, this tool darkens images pretty severely, giving you a lot to undo with the History Brush.
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I'm using Photoshop CC here but this tutorial is also fully compatible with Photoshop CS6. For earlier versions of Photoshop, check out my original Non-Destructive Lens Flare Effect tutorial.
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More on using these color profiles later in this chapter. TIP: Creating Your Own Profiles You can also pay an outside service to create a custom profile for your printer. You print a test sheet (which they pro- vide), overnight it to them, and they’ll use an expensive colorimeter to mea- sure your test print and create a custom profile. The catch: it’s only good for that printer, on that paper, with that ink. If any- thing changes, your custom profile is just about worthless. Of course, you could do your own personal printer profiling (using something like one of X-Rite’s i1 Solutions), so you can re-profile each time you change paper or inks.
As you learned earlier in this chapter, Photoshop is pretty darn customizable. In addition to personalizing the way its tools behave and how your workspace looks, you can make lots of changes using the program’s preferences, which control different aspects of Photoshop and let you turn features on or off, change how tools act, and fine-tune how the program performs.
I didn't do a very good job with the mask and the edges are harsh. For the purple spiked corona bird effect, this wasn't a problem but now it is.
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If panels are encroaching on your editing space, you can shrink them both horizontally and vertically so they look and behave like buttons. To collapse a panel (or panel group) horizontally so that it becomes a button nestled against the side of another panel or the edge of your screen, click the tiny double arrow in its top-right corner; click this same button again to expand the panel. To collapse a panel vertically against the bottom of the panel above it, as shown in Figure 1-5, double-click the panel’s tab to make it roll up like a window shade; single-click the tab to roll the panel back down. To adjust a panel’s width, point your cursor at its left edge and, when the cursor turns into a double-headed arrow, drag left or right to make the panel bigger or smaller.
Select the white object first, and then add a new Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. It’s similar to the first example, but this time, select the “Colorize” feature.
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This opens the Lens Flare dialog box. Photoshop's Lens Flare filter adds a simulated lens flare effect to the image, and we can choose from one of four different types of lenses (50-300 mm Zoom, 35mm Prime, 105mm Prime, and Movie Prime) in the Lens Type section in the lower left. Each one will give the effect a different look. You can try them out by selecting them and seeing what each one looks like in the image preview area. I'm going to stick with the default 50-300mm Zoom lens. You can also adjust the brightness of the lens flare by dragging the Brightness slider left or right, but again, I'll stick with the default 100%.
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Change the blending mode to Color or Hue. The Hue blending mode will look more natural, but you can also select the Color blending mode and adjust the color to reduce some of the saturation.
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Previous Story Adobe Photoshop, Illustrator CS6 now support Apple’s high-res Retina displays
Tooltips work on preference settings, too! So if you forget what a setting does, just point your cursor at it for a second or two and you’ll get a tiny yellow explanation.
Chapter 1. Photoshop CS6 Guided Tour
This app supports RAW files and has tight integration with Creative Cloud. The only drawback is the speed of work, as the editor is slower compared to its analogs.
In this video, Nathaniel changes the color of a dress, background light, and a car. He also matches the color of the object with a sample color, and also adds color to a white dress. He uses different techniques, and they’ll get you prepared for any color changing task that may be ahead of you.
You keep confusing ppi with dpi. The resolution of an image file really is expressed in ppi, pixels per inch, not "dpi" which is dots per inch.
You can make Photoshop do even more cool stuff by installing third-party programs called plug-ins. There are so many useful plug-ins that this book has an entire chapter devoted to them (Chapter 19). The preferences in this category let you store plug-ins somewhere other than your computer’s Photoshop folder, which can help you avoid losing your plug-ins if you have to reinstall Photoshop. Leave both checkboxes in the Extension Panels section turned on so Photoshop can connect to the Internet if a plug-in or panel needs to grab information from a website. For example, the Kuler panel (Using the Kuler Panel) lets you use color themes posted on the Web by folks in the Kuler community. If you turn off these checkboxes, Photoshop can’t connect to the Internet and you can’t use Kuler. To make any changes in this pane take effect, you need to restart Photoshop.
Another handy option lies at the very bottom of the dialog box. It lets you change the number of documents Photoshop lists in the Recent files menu (found by choosing File→Open Recent). This field is automatically set to 10, but feel free to change it if you frequently need to reopen the same documents.
The good You Go Any Further news is that today it’s an absolutely simple, totally automated process. The badnews is that you have to buy a hardware calibrator. With hardware calibration, it’s measuring your actual monitor and building an accurate profile for the exact monitor you’re using, and yes—it makes that big a difference. Step One: I use Datacolor’s Spyder4ELITE hardware color calibrator (around $249 street price), because it’s simple, affordable, and a lot of the pros I know have moved over to it. So, I’m going to use it as an example here, but it’s not necessary to get this same one, because they all work fairly similarly. You start by installing the software that comes with the Spyder4ELITE. Then, plug the Spyder4ELITE sensor into your computer’s USB port and launch the software, which brings up the main window (seen here).
As with all Alien Skin plug-ins, I had lots of built-in choices. There are 30 basic filter sets and about 1500 presets. Once you select a preset, you can adjust the various settings to create just the effect you want and, when you've done that, you can save the settings as a preset for later use.
This panel lets you create Adjustment layers. Instead of making color and brightness changes to your original image, you can use Adjustment layers to make these changes on a separate layer, giving you all kinds of editing flexibility and keeping your original image out of harm’s way. They’re explained in detail in Chapter 3, and you’ll see ’em used throughout this book.
That places customers who've paid full price for retail bundles in a rather unusual situation. Features available to a new customer immediately upon starting a relatively affordable subscription will not yet be available to those who've potentially already invested thousands of dollars in a single CS6 bundle.
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More than ever before, Photoshop CS6 takes advantage of your computer’s built-in ability to draw and process graphics. This results in faster and smoother performance when you’re resizing images with Free Transform, rotating your canvas temporarily with Rotate View, using the HUD Color Picker—the list goes on and on (you’ll learn about all these options throughout this book). If you turn off the Use Graphics Processor checkbox at the bottom right, you lose all these superpowers, though you might squeeze a little more performance out of your machine. If you’ve got a newer machine, be sure to leave this setting turned on. That said, you control how much your graphics processor is being tapped by clicking the Advanced Settings button (your choices are Basic, Normal, and Advanced).
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If that’s too much, lowerthe Opacity of the top layer. One prob-lem with High Pass sharpening is that youmight get a glow along some edges.
Eric you have not posted any installation errors thus I moved this discussion to the Illustrator forum. I would recommend you post any specific launch error or performance inconsistencies in the forum relevant to that software title.
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You can open even more panels by opening the Window menu (which lists all of Photoshop’s panels) and then clicking the name of the one you want to open. When you do, Photoshop puts the panel in a column to the left of the ones that are already open and adds a tiny button to its right that you can click to collapse it both horizontally and vertically (just click the button again to expand it). If the new panel is part of a group, like the Character and Paragraph panels, the extra panel tags along with it. If it’s a panel you expect to use a lot, you can add it to an existing panel group by clicking and dragging the dotted lines above its button into a blank area in the panel group. Figure 1-6 shows this maneuver in action.
You can chooseyour page orientation by clicking on theportrait and landscape Layout icons at thebottom of the Printer Setup section (asshown here). By the way, if you’ve usedthis dialog before in previous versions ofPhotoshop, you’ll be happy to know thatnow, in Photoshop CS6, you can actuallyresize the dialog to any size you’d like byclicking on the bottom-right corner anddragging it out.
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But what if you’re not using Epson paper? Or if you have a different printer, like a Canon or an HP? Step Four: We’ll tackle the different paper issue first (because they’re tied together). I mentioned earlier that I usually print on Epson papers. I say usually because sometimes I want a final print that fits in a 16x20\" standard pre-made frame, without having to cut or trim the photo. In those cases, I use Red River Paper’s 16x20\" Ultra Pro Satin instead (which is very much like Epson’s Ultra Premium Luster, but it’s already pre-cut to 16x20\").
You can undock a whole panel group in nearly the same way: Click an empty spot in the group’s tab area and drag it out of the dock. Once you release your mouse button, you can drag the group around by clicking the same empty spot in the tab area. Or, if the group is collapsed, click the tiny dotted lines at the top of the group, just below the dark gray bar.
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It’s a snap to jump between modes. Just press the F key repeatedly (unless you’re in the middle of cropping an image or using the Type tool—if you are, you’ll type a bunch of F’s) or use the Screen Modes pop-up menu at the bottom of the Tools panel (circled in Figure 1-3, top).
To use this new feature, first make sure the Scale to Fit Media check- box is turned off, and then click-and-drag the image around so you can reach a cor- ner handle surrounding your image. Then, just click-and-drag a corner handle inward, and it resizes your image (kind of like FreeTransform does, but you don’t have to hold the Shift key to keep the resizing proportional—it does that automatically). Here, I scaled the image down in size and positioned it where I wanted by just clicking-and-dragging it in the preview area. Now, before we go on to the next step, you’re probably wondering what that lined area around the outside edge of your paper is all about. That’s showing you where the margins are (the non-print- able areas of your paper). Step Six: If you want to be able to print all the way to the border (and have those margin lines and non-printable areas go away), all you have to do is to set your margins to 0 inches.
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Here’s how to prep your images for uploading to be printed at a photo lab:Step One:First, contact the photo lab where you’resending your image, and ask what colorprofile they want you to use. Chances arethey are going to want you to convertyour image to sRGB color mode. I knowthis flies in the face of what we do whenwe print our own images, but I know anumber of big, high-quality photo labs(Mpix included) that all request that youconvert your images to sRGB first, andfor their workflow, it works.
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Except for a huge selection of tools, the main advantage is the support of all Wacom graphics tablets, as well as other manufacturers, and you will not have any failures or various problems in your work. Shading and introduction changes and uses its other layers in limited sources. Adobe Creative Suite gets cloud treatment, giving producers options for licensing Photoshop, Premiere Pro, After Effects, Flash Pro and other CS6 applications on a month-by-month subscription basis, rather than paying for boxed product with perpetual licenses. The new MacBook Air, 13" MacBook Pro and Mac mini devices all use Apple's new M1 chip.
Photoshop Essentials How To Add Lens Flare To An Image With Photoshop Comments Feed
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The next step was to call on Alien Skin Eye Candy's textures filter. A green stone wall seemed like a good choice for the no-longer purple spiked corona bird. The default stones seemed too large to be believable as a wall for this image so I reduced their size and made a few other minor changes to the default settings.
If you want to mix the original color with the one you added, you can reduce the opacity of the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. Since the dress in Nathaniel’s photo is red and he turned it into blue, by decreasing the opacity of the adjustment layer, the dress will become purple.
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This is where you pick which version of the image you want to go back to. If you dragged more than once in step 2, you’ll see several Burn states listed in the panel. To reduce some of the darkening, but not all of it, choose one of the first few Burn states (or choose the Open state to get rid of all the darkening where you painted). Just click within the panel’s left-hand column next to a state to pick it, and you’ll see the History Brush’s icon appear in that column.
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This approach seems a bit complicated, but it’s super-useful if you need to match the color of the object with a color swatch from the catalog. Nathaniel’s photo is an interior with two chairs, and the white one needs to be matched to the orange color.
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To share just a few presets (excluding actions, keyboard shortcuts, menu customizations, and workspaces) create a preset library of your own by opening the Preset Manager and choosing the presets you want to share (Shift-click or ⌘-/Control-click to highlight ’em). Next, click the Save Set button, and in the resulting Save dialog box, give your custom library a name. Unless you pick a different location on your hard drive, Photoshop automatically saves it in the folders where it stores all custom settings. When everything looks good, click Save. Once you’ve saved your custom library, you can email it to folks or upload it to a website for others to download. If you’re uploading it to the Web, make sure the file doesn’t have any spaces in its name.
The latest Adobe Photoshop (go to website) Express tool is “Borders”. It is available in three types: basic, edges and frames. As in the case with other tools, open one tool you’ll get about 10 different frame variations and other effects. It is quite an interesting tool that offers a rich selection of different frames, which will help sometimes to decorate the photo.
Again, make the selection of the car using your preferred method. Then, add a new Solid Color adjustment layer. This will look pretty bad, but don’t worry – changing the blending mode will fix it.
This is a decade-old image and sensors from that time introduced a lot of noise. The color noise was minimal but the image had a significant amount of luminance noise, which appears as bright speckles.